Rome City Guide

Since I first moved to Rome in 2006, not much has changed. (Shocking, huh?) The Colosseum is still here, the Forum is still rubble, and on a recent day trip from Rome, the same elderly man made my sandwich at the same deli as did 3 years prior. I hope this travel advice will be just as timeless. I'll continue to add new discoveries here, but for now, here is are some of our favorite places in Roma. Enjoy!

Sites to See (in a weekend)

• The Pantheon Free admission & incredible dome
• The Colosseum It's the colosseum. Go see it!*
• The Forum Admission fee, but a pretty good view from the street
• Il Vittoriano Built to honor the first king of unified Italy. Eat lunch or get a drink at the outdoor cafe after seeing the ancient sites. (See below)
• The Vatican (St. Peter's Basilica) Free entrance and a must-see
• Trevi Fountain Toss in a coin! Extra romantic at night. Free admission.
• Spanish Steps & Via Condotti The steps aren't as impressive, but the expensive shops on Via Condotti might be worth the walk-by. Free admission.
• Piazza del Popolo & the Twin Churches A quick-see when near Piazza di Spagna
• Piazza Navonna & Fountain of the Four Rivers (Bernini) Artists in the summer & a Christmas market in December. Free admission.
• Trastevere Rome's tiny street zone. Walk around, sip a glass of wine, see the small piazza. Try the gelato at Fior di Luna (below).

If you are in for longer than a weekend, I'd also suggest seeing:

• The Vatican Museum & Sistine Chapel A several-hour excursion, but worth it if you're in Rome longer than a weekend. I recommend reservations as the lines get very long.
• Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano Rome's church. Free admission.
• Villa Borghese & the Borghese Gallery For those in on a longer trip, have a stroll in this park and see some of the most amazing Bernini sculptures in the world. You must book an appointment fairly ahead of time online here. I might suggest pairing a picnic in Villa Borghese with your trip. Visit the "Pincio" overlook for a good view of the city. Can be reached by the stairs from Pza del Popolo or Pza di Spagna or the bus. € 8.50 admission.
• Catacombs of Saint Callixtus For those staying longer than a weekend, take a trip out to tour the catacombs outside of Rome. A burial place for early Christians, the catacombs are a fascinating visit. Click the "practical advices" on their website to get some valuable info before you go (including hours of operation). € 8 admission and includes tour.
• Campo di Fiori At night it's full of drunk study abroad kids, but in the morning hours there's a lovely fruit and vegetable market. Go and watch the nonne (grandmas) shop!
• Zona Cavour The small streets are near the Colossum, Cavour offers a nice break from tourism to sit and enjoy a very "Italian" scene. Lots of quirky and artistic shops and boutiques to browse. A couple vintage shops (via Serpenti 414). Sit at a cafe at La Bottega del Caffé  (below).

Other suggestions:

• Villa Doria Pamphili Rome's largest green space, I'd say go here only if you are staying nearby or if you're in Rome for a long time. It's lovely to walk around, have a picnic or eat at the super-cute Vivi Bistrot, but Villa Borghese is closer to the center and more manicured.

*If you are buying the ticket to see the Colosseum/Forum/Palatine Hill, here's a tip for you: All 3 sites are on the same ticket and most people wait first at the Colosseum. If you walk up the street to the Palatine Hill you can wait in a short line, see the Palatine and then head to the Colosseum and Roman Forum.

Where to Eat
A few pizzerias:

• Pizzeria Baffetto (€) Very thin, Roman-style pizza. Get there early (before 8) or wait in a very long line. You'll be eating with tourists, but it's excellent! Closed Mondays. Via del Governo Vecchio 114 (near p. navona) 
• Re Cafe (€) Southern-style, thick-crust pizza in a swanky pizza restaurant Piazza Augusto Imperatore, 36 tel. 0668134730 (near spanish steps & via del corso)
• Bella Napoli (€) A pretty local pizza joint with great Napolitano (from Naples) pizza. Choose between "Alta" (thick) or "Bassa" (thinner... but not thin) crust. (Go with alta) and splurge the extra €2 to make the mozzerella "mozerella di buffula" (near porta pia- beware, there are 2 bella napolis in the city!)
• The bar on Il Vittoriano (€) Other than a great view, this cafe isn't anything too special except it's very convenient and seems to avoid most of the tourists. Climb the stairs up the left side of the Vittoriano and follow the signs to "Bar". Great view of the Colosseum and some good salad & sandwich options.

Other mid-range (and tasty) meals:

• Le Fate (€€) A quirky little restaurant near Trastevere, Le Fate has produced some excellent meals for us only using local produce. Try the cheese plate starter. They also offer cooking classes. Viale Trastevere 130 / tel: 0658 00971 (near trastevere)
• La 'Nduja (€) A little more off the beaten path, La 'Nduja is an unassuming Calabrian (the south of Italy) place with excellent food. Try the bacala (fried cod) starter and the Pasta Calabrese (with the spicy sausage "'Nduja" mixed into it. You can take a bus from Tiburtina bus station.  Piazza S.M.Consolatrice, 1-4 tel: 064370025 (zona Casalbertone)
•  Trattoria Giggetto (€€) Situated in the Roman Jewish Ghetto near the Vittoriano, make SURE to get their artichokes, and I quite like their seven sins pasta as well! Read my post on Jewish Artichokes. 
  Via del Portico, 28/A

A nicer meal out:

• Casa Coppelle (€€€) Romantic atmosphere and delicious food, Casa Coppelle has been a 'special occasion' place for us. It's just a few minutes walk from the Pantheon, has a unique menu (try the Wild Boar pasta, the Rosmary & Champagne Risotto, the Proscuitto & Melon appetizer) Piazza della Coppelle, 49 (near the pantheon)
• Babette (€€€) A little more up-scale menu in the up-scale area of Piazza di Spagna. Nice to sit out the back piazza area in nice weather. Via Margutta 1D/3 tel: 06 321 1559 (near piazza di spagna & piazza del popolo)

• Hosteria Antica (€€€) Out on the Appia Antica just outside of Rome, this family-owned restaurant occupies an old monument built to honor slaves that were freed during the time of Augustus. Definitely a "nice night" place to eat outside. (In fact, I might not go if it wasn't.) Make it a late dinner, sitting outside amongst the ruins and candlelight. Via Appia Antica 87 tel. 06 513 2888 (on the appia antica)

Where to drink coffee
If you're looking for someplace to sit, you won't find many. Coffee is normally enjoyed standing up at the bar. If you want to be Italian, only drink cappuccini for breakfast with a "cornetto" pastry, then "caffe" or "caffe macchiati" (with milk) during the day and after dinner. Here are my 2 favorite places, but pop in throughout the day to local joints as well!

• Sant'Eustachio Rome's most famous bar. It's usually rammed full of people, but worth a visit. Your coffee arrives already sugared. Pick up some beans to take home! Piazza Sant’Eustachio, 82(near the pantheon) 
• Tazzo d'Oro An excellent coffee roaster. Worth the trip and bringing some beans home. Via degli Orfani, 84 (near the pantheon)
• Emporio alla Pace There's nothing special about this place (it's good coffee and some lunch food) except that it's charming and has a few couches and chairs to sit and rest! (A difficult find, although there are several on Via della Pace. Take a break after Pza. Navona. Via della Pace, 28 (2 min from pza. navona)
• La Bottega del Caffé A nice spot to sit while touring Cavour or the Colosseum/Forum (about 5 min walk). Great for all hours: breakfast, an afternoon drink (snacks come with the drinks) or fun place to go for desserts at night if touring the Colosseum. Piazza della Madonna dei Monti, 5 (cavour)

Where to eat gelato

• Giolitti (Pantheon/Via del Corso)
• Della Palma (Pantheon/Via del Corso)
• MaMO (Tiburtina Station)
• Bel Sito (Piazza Bologna)
• Fior di Luna (Trastevere)  Via della Lungaretta, 96 Only made from in-season produce.
• Old Bridge (Vatican)

Day trips from Roma

• Orvieto & Civita
• Castelli Romani and Lake Albano
• Sabaudia Beach

More coming soon.